The Great Basin is the largest desert in the United States, covering roughly 200,000 square miles across Nevada, western Utah, eastern California, southeastern Oregon, and southern Idaho. It is larger than California and roughly the size of France, yet it holds very few residents. One of its defining characteristics is that no river within it ever reaches the sea. Every drop of rain either evaporates, sinks into the ground, or collects in salt lakes with no outlet.
The region is also the floor of two ancient inland seas, Lake Bonneville and Lake Lahontan, which disappeared thousands of years ago. Shoreline terraces from those lakes are still visible as flat lines cut into mountainsides throughout the area. Geologist Grove Karl Gilbert published a detailed study in 1890 proving that the shoreline around Salt Lake City was formed by the much larger Lake Bonneville.

Nevada is officially known as the Silver State, but its modern mineral economy is built on gold. The state produces about 76 percent of all gold mined in the United States, making it the fourth-largest gold-producing jurisdiction in the world. Most of that gold is invisible to the naked eye. Deposits along the Carlin Trend in northern Nevada contain gold dissolved at the atomic level inside pyrite crystals. The finding was made in 1961 by geologist John Livermore, who used chemical assays rather than visual inspection.
Some of the region’s notable features came about by accident. Fly Geyser, located north of Reno, was created in 1964 when a geothermal energy company drilled a test well and left the hole improperly sealed. Pressurized hot water has escaped continuously since then, depositing calcium carbonate and growing the cone by several inches each year. The geyser, now owned by the Burning Man Project, has been open for limited guided tours since 2016.
The Great Basin also holds a significant place in American cultural history. Samuel Clemens first used the pen name Mark Twain while working as a reporter in Virginia City, Nevada, signing a dispatch with that name on February 3, 1863. He had arrived in the mining town in late 1862, more than 800 miles from any navigable river.
During the Civil War, Nevada’s silver played a role in funding the Union. The Comstock Lode, discovered in 1859, produced enormous wealth, and President Lincoln pushed for Nevada statehood in 1864 in part to secure that mineral revenue. Peak production in 1877 yielded the equivalent of roughly $820 million in today’s gold and silver.
The landscape itself is unusual. Geologists call it the Basin and Range Province, a region where the Earth’s crust is being pulled apart, creating between 160 and 400 parallel mountain ranges. Driving across northern Nevada on Interstate 80 means crossing eight ranges in 600 miles. At the end of the last ice age, each of those mountains was effectively an island.
One of the region’s most studied mysteries involved rocks that move across a dry lake bed in Death Valley National Park. For 80 years, no one knew how the stones, some weighing up to 700 pounds, left long trails in the mud. In December 2013, scientists Richard and James Norris captured the movement on camera. Thin sheets of ice, only a few millimeters thick, break up in the morning sun and are pushed by light winds, scraping the rocks across the wet surface.
The Nevada desert has also preserved evidence of ancient marine life. At Berlin-Icthyosaur State Park in central Nevada, roughly 40 fossilized Shonisaurus popularis, marine reptiles up to 50 feet long, lie where they died about 225 million years ago. At that time, the area was the floor of a tropical ocean. Recent research suggests the animals may have gathered there to give birth.
Nevada is not typically associated with glaciers, but a small rock glacier, a mix of ice and rock, persists on the north face of Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park. It has survived for around 10,000 years, though scientists have documented its retreat each summer since 2005.
The Pony Express operated for only 18 months before the transcontinental telegraph made it obsolete. It ran from April 1860 to October 1861, with 47 of its 197 stations located in Nevada. One of its most famous rides was made by Robert “Pony Bob” Haslam in May 1860, when he covered a 380-mile round trip in under 36 hours. The following March, he carried Lincoln’s inaugural address across Nevada in eight hours.
Steens Mountain in southeastern Oregon is the largest fault block mountain in North America. It is a single block of basalt that rises 9,733 feet and drops 5,500 vertical feet on its east face. The Oregon desert below was itself the floor of an ice age lake.
The Humboldt River is the longest river in Nevada, flowing roughly 300 miles before disappearing into the Humboldt Sink, where it evaporates or sinks into the ground. It is the only river of its size in the United States that never reaches the sea. Nineteenth-century emigrants depended on it as the only consistent water source between Salt Lake and the Sierra Nevada.
Around half of all wild mustangs in the United States, between 40,000 and 50,000 horses, live in Nevada and the broader Great Basin. Their protected status is largely due to Velma Bronn Johnston, a Reno resident who began campaigning after seeing wild horses taken to slaughter in 1950. Her efforts, including mobilizing schoolchildren to write to Congress, led to the Wild Free-Roaming Horses and Burros Act, which passed in 1971 without a single dissenting vote.
Mono Lake, one of the oldest lakes in North America, has lost significant volume due to water diversion. Beginning in 1941, the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power diverted the lake’s tributary streams through an aqueduct. Over 53 years, the lake dropped 45 feet, its surface area shrank by nearly a third, and its salinity doubled. The limestone towers that were once underwater are now exposed above the surface.
The Western Shoshone Nation’s relationship with the federal government over land in Nevada remains unresolved. The Treaty of Ruby Valley, signed in 1863, did not cede land, only granted safe passage. Nevertheless, the federal government later claimed roughly 24 million acres of former Western Shoshone territory. In 1974, the Bureau of Land Management sued sisters Mary and Carrie Dann for grazing cattle on land they considered their own. The U.S. Supreme Court ruled against them in 1985, though the Inter-American Commission on Human Rights later ruled in their favor. Congress offered the tribe $145 million, which was refused because accepting would extinguish the land claim. Mary Dann died in 2005, and Carrie Dann continued the fight until her death in 2021.
Great Basin National Park contains at least 40 known caves, including Lehman Caves, which holds more than 300 rare formations called shields. The caves formed in limestone deposited about 550 million years ago. A small arachnid that lives nowhere else, the Great Basin Cave Pseudoscorpion, was also found there.
The official record for the hottest air temperature on Earth, 134 degrees Fahrenheit, was recorded at Death Valley on July 10, 1913. A paper published in November 2025 argued that the reading was likely 12 to 16 degrees too high due to non-standard instrument shelter conditions and direct sunlight reflection. The World Meteorological Organization has not yet revised the record, but the five consecutive days at or above 129 degrees that year are documented.
In August 1940, archaeologists found a naturally mummified human body in a cave east of Fallon, Nevada. Initially estimated to be about 2,000 years old, carbon dating later revealed the remains were about 10,600 years old. The man, now known as the Spirit Cave Mummy, died roughly 5,600 years before the oldest known Egyptian mummy. The Fallon Paiute-Shoshone Tribe claimed him as an ancestor, and after 76 years in federal custody, his remains were returned to the tribe in 2016 and buried in 2018.
Burning Man, the annual event in the Black Rock Desert, takes place on the dried floor of Ice Age Lake Lahontan. Each year, around 80,000 people build a temporary city there for nine days. The playa’s silt deposits are more than 10,000 feet deep at their thickest point.
Spiral Jetty, a land art installation by Robert Smithson, was built in 1970 at the Great Salt Lake. The 1,500-foot counterclockwise spiral of basalt rock sat underwater for 30 years after lake levels rose in 1972. It re-emerged in 2002 after water diversions lowered the lake enough to expose it again.
Pyramid Lake in northwestern Nevada was once home to the largest freshwater trout in North America. The Lahontan cutthroat trout regularly grew to 40 pounds or more. The population went extinct within 20 years of Derby Dam cutting off their spawning migration in 1905. A small population was later found in a remote Utah stream in 1977, and scientists spent decades reintroducing them. In 2014, wild fish spawned in the Truckee River for the first time since World War II.
The Great Salt Lake is the world’s largest source of brine shrimp eggs, accounting for about 45 percent of the global commercial supply. Those eggs are shipped to shrimp farms and hatcheries in several countries. The lake has lost nearly half its volume since 1847 and reached its lowest recorded level in 2022. The exposed lake bed contains arsenic and other metals that now blow in dust storms across northern Utah.
The rarest vertebrate on Earth lives in a single pool in Nevada’s Amargosa Valley. The Devil’s Hole pupfish, about an inch and a half long, exists only in a flooded limestone cavern roughly the size of a two-car garage. In 2013, the total wild population was counted at 35 fish. In April 2016, three men drove past a locked gate, fired a shotgun at cameras, and one swam in the pool. A pupfish was found dead the next morning. The species survives, connected to an aquifer that is the last living remnant of an ice age sea.
The oldest living non-clonal tree on the planet is a Great Basin bristlecone pine called Methuselah, located in eastern California’s White Mountains. As of 2026, it is about 4,857 years old. Its exact location is kept secret to protect it from vandalism. A slightly older bristlecone, 5,065 years old, was confirmed in 2013 in the same grove, and its location is also classified.
In 1924, 70 unarmed men from the Owens Valley opened the gates of the Los Angeles Aqueduct, sending water back down the dry Owens River for the first time in 11 years. They held the gates for four days, joined by about 700 supporters. The takeover did not change the outcome, and Los Angeles resumed taking water. Owens Lake, drained by the aqueduct, is now the largest single source of particulate air pollution in the United States.
Great Basin National Park is certified as a gold-tier international dark sky park, the highest possible classification. On clear nights, the sky is dark enough to see gegenschein, a faint glow caused by sunlight scattering off interplanetary dust. The park sits 200 miles from any major city.
Bodie, California, was a gold mining town that peaked at around 10,000 residents in 1879. The last mine closed in 1942, and the town is now preserved under a policy of arrested decay. More than 170 buildings still stand, with contents left as they were when the last residents left.
Thacker Pass in northern Nevada is the largest confirmed lithium deposit in North America, potentially 10 to 12 times larger than previously known deposits. The Northern Paiute and Western Shoshone call the site Peehee Mu’hah, Rotten Moon, and consider it sacred. In September 1865, U.S. Army soldiers attacked a Paiute camp there, killing dozens of people. Twenty-two tribes consider the site sacred, and three filed federal lawsuits to stop the mine. Courts denied motions to halt the project, and construction began in 2025.
Wendover Army Airfield, on the Utah-Nevada border, was the training site for the 509th Composite Group, the unit that dropped atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. The crews practiced by dropping dummy bombs shaped like the Fat Man weapon across the Bonneville Salt Flats. Security was so strict that most members never knew the purpose of their training. The hangar that housed the Enola Gay still stands.
Area 51, officially called the Groom Lake facility, is built on a dry lake bed in Lincoln County, Nevada. The CIA did not publicly acknowledge its existence until 2013. The U-2 spy plane, the SR-71 Blackbird, and the F-117 stealth fighter were developed there.
The Donner Party disaster is usually associated with the Sierra Nevada, but the group’s fatal delay began on a Utah salt flat. In August 1846, following inaccurate advice, the 87-person party attempted to cross the Great Salt Lake Desert. The crossing took six days instead of the predicted two, and the group lost wagons and draft animals. They reached the western side three weeks behind schedule, which made them too late to safely cross the Sierra Nevada before winter. Forty-two members died.
On October 15, 1997, the British jet car Thrust SSC, driven by Andy Green, reached 763.035 mph on the Black Rock Desert Playa, becoming the first land vehicle to break the sound barrier. The record has not been broken in 29 years. The run was possible because the lake bed is the flattest large surface in North America, with less than a meter of elevation variation across 310 square kilometers.
The Nevada Test Site in Nye County was the location of 928 nuclear weapons tests between 1951 and 1992. That averages one explosion every 16 days. The first 100 tests were above ground and visible from Las Vegas. In 1997, the National Cancer Institute estimated that fallout caused between 10,000 and 75,000 additional thyroid cancer cases in communities across Nevada, Utah, and Arizona.
All of these features sit on the floor of two vanished inland seas. Lake Bonneville covered about 20,000 square miles at its peak around 14,500 years ago, comparable to Lake Michigan. It ended catastrophically when it breached its rim and released a massive flood. Lake Lahontan covered 8,500 square miles in the west and evaporated slowly, leaving behind Pyramid, Walker, and Mono Lakes. Both lakes were present when human beings lived in the region. The shoreline terraces from these ancient seas remain visible today from Interstate 80.